Showing posts with label Container Gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Container Gardening. Show all posts

Put Your Window Sill To Work For You - Container Gardening

Sunday, October 7, 2012

With window sill gardens, the growing season is never over even with back to school and the end of the outdoor gardening season in the Northern tier of the world. But, it doesn't necessarily mean the end of the gardening season altogether. Did you ever hear of a Window Sill Garden?

What to do with that green thumb and taste for fresh and homegrown? No matter where you live, if you have a sunny window or not you have some gardening choices. As long as you have a tabletop, bookshelf, top of a refrigerator, washer or drier or any unused or under used flat surface where you can put a container, you can garden indoors.

I don't have any pots or planters, you say. It doesn't matter. Let's deal with each issue. A sunny window with a wide sill or ledge is ideal, but a small stand, plant stand, book case, ironing board (you have heard of an ironing board haven't you?) or dresser in front of a sunny window will be a great grow spot. Not only that, growing plants indoors adds much needed humidity and cleans air to your indoor winter living quarters. Any container from a coffee can to soup can, glass pickle jar or soda bottle, an old ash tray, dish pan, or boot will be a fine container to use to plant in.

First you will have to decide what you want to plant so that you know what size container you will need. Any number of herbs, leaf lettuce, a tree tomato, and other possibilities are limited only by your space and your container. Herbs are the most natural or popular choice. Parsley, thyme, basil, and rosemary and sage are all delicious additions to your cooking, teas or garnishes.

Next, choose appropriate containers. They do not need to be flower posts, but they do need good drainage. You may have to poke holes in the bottom of a boot, the base of a can or put drainage material in a glass jar to make sure your plants aren't sitting with wet feet. (that's not good for humans, nor plants.) You will want to be able to put some sort of sauce or catch basin under your container for this reason. You can use those foam packing peanuts to put in the bottom of your container to insure good drainage, or small rocks, pieces of broken clay post or just something to keep your container grown plants from soaking in the water. The foam packing peanuts (some are biodegradable) and they make a lightweight base for your planter, where rocks, twigs, or broken clay pots can become heavy to move.

You will want a good indoor potting mix to use for the soil in your plants. Miracle Grow™ is one I highly recommend because it also has timed release fertilizer included, but there are other good ones. Ace Hardware has a brand of their own that is quite good as well. Your budget and your preference are your only considerations. Never use soil from your garden to pot indoor or container plants even outside. The soil is just too heavy, even when filled with organic mulch, to allow for good drainage and root penetration. It often becomes hard packed and not conducive to good root formation. Potted or container grown plants need indoor formulated soil for nutrients and fertilizer compatible to the growing method.

Your seed packet will tell you how deep your seeds need to be planted. A good rule of thumb is the seed should be covered three times the depth of the seed diameter. Tiny herb seeds need the barest of soil covering them. Dampen the soil thoroughly before you sprinkle the seeds on the surface. Then sprinkle dry soil over the top of them. Pat the surface gently to insure good contact with the soil. Cover with clear plastic wrap to retain moisture and place them near a light source. If you don't have a sunny window spot, a grow light designed especially for plants will do the trick.

Once the seeds are up remove the plastic and mist the plants daily until the growth is steady. Start snipping to use when the plants reach a couple of inches in height to encourage bushy compact growth.

If you have a cat, grow her a container of catnip and she'll leave your plants alone.

Drying, using, freezing herbs for use is another topic we will look into in another article. Once you get started, you will see you can grow more than herbs in small winter spaces all year round.

Sources for more information: 

Organic Gardening Magazines
Gurney Seed and Nursery catalogues - reading all about the seeds and their growing needs, the various tips and tricks in gardening catalogs is a valuable and free source of information.

Organic Food Gardening A Beginner's Manual, by Julie Turner
The Edible Balcony by Alex Michell
Billie A Williams, http://www.eatingcheapandhealthy.com began gardening as a youngster under the tutelage of her grandfather on his farm where she spent her summers. Visit the website to sign up for her newsletter.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Billie_Williams

Container Gardening for the New Gardener

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Have you ever wished you could bring a luxurious blooming azalea into your living room, or enjoy the fragrance of a blooming Meyer lemon when the temperature outside is still below freezing? You can turn these wishes into daily enjoyment if the plants are grown in handsome containers that can be moved wherever you like.

Whether you choose to bring a plant indoors or simply give it a prominent place on the patio or deck, container gardening allows you to move a plant when you want to, regardless of the season or transplanting conditions. And because you can create the proper soil condition (see directions below) and protect a plant from extreme temperatures, you can grow it wherever you like.

CAREFUL WATERING AND FEEDING ARE ESSENTIAL - Plants in containers require more attention to watering and soil condition than plants in the ground. You should water a container plant whenever the top inch or so of soil feels dry (in hot weather, some containers may require watering twice a day). Be sure to water enough so that the water begins to run out of the drainage holes. And if you're planning to be away from home for a few days, tightly group your container plants in a sheltered area; the plants will protect each other from the beat, cutting down moisture loss.

Unless the water in your area has a very low mineral content, salts will build up in containers, occasionally burning leaves or even killing some plants, To prevent this from happening, periodically flush out the soil by allowing water to trickle slowly into the container until it is saturated; or fill the pot several times in succession, allowing it to drain thoroughly. If leaf edges still show signs of burning (the edges turn brown and become brittle), submerge the pot in a tub filled with water.

The frequent watering which is necessary to maintain container plants, unfortunately flushes away any added fertilizer. The best way to keep a plant fertilized is to feed it every week using one-fourth the recommended strength.

TRANSPLANTING TECHNIQUES - Because feeder roots of container plants tend to mass next to the container wall, most plants should be transplanted to slightly larger pots from time to time or they will become pot bound and stop growing. Choose a new container that allows for two or three inches of new soil around the root ball. Guard against putting your plant into a much larger container-the unused soil may become soggy and sour and kill the plant before it has time to send out enough root growth. A day before transplanting, water the plant well. Then, remove the plant from its container, lightly scrape the root ball to stimulate the feeder roots, and set it in the larger pot on a bed of new soil mix. Then gradually add soil until the pot is filled, tamping the surface gently to avoid air pockets.

WHICH POTTING MIX? - A good planting mix is probably the most important element in container gardening. If you want to make up your own potting mix, use the ingredients listed for one of the three different mixes in the chart below. The basic mix is good for growing most plants; the exceptions are acid-loving plants which require the acid mix. The lightweight mix is best used for house plants or for container plants that require frequent moving.

Guard against substituting a raw wood product for one of the ingredients because it will quickly use up any fertilizer you add, leaving the plant without the proper nourishment.

The amount of ingredients listed for a small quantity of basic mix will fill about 18 pots, 12 inches in diameter. The larger quantity of basic mix will give you a cubic yard. Whether you make the small or large quantity, the basic mix will require additional frequent feedings of nitrogen, since it will not retain fertilizer very well (use a quarter-strength fertilizer weekly).

If you prefer to use your own formula for making a soil mix, make sure it doesn't include dense clay. Clay soil retains water, often drowning container plants.

Before putting plants in containers, make sure the mix is damp but not wet (if you're using new clay pots, soak them before planting so they will not rob moisture from the soil mix). Cover the container drain hole with small pieces of broken clay pots. Then check the consistency of the mix-it must be the same throughout the container to allow capillary action to draw water down to the roots, Fill the pot with soil mix to within 1/2 inch of the top. Water slowly to give the mix a chance to settle, adding more if needed.

BASIC MIX (For a Large Quantity)
(Suitable for all but ericaceous plants such azalea, heather, rhododendron.)
  • 2/3 yard nitrogen stabilized bark, redwood sawdust, or otherorganic matter
  • 1/3 yard sandy loam or uniform fine sand
  • 6 pounds 0-10-10 or equivalent dry
  • fertilizer
  • 10 pounds dolomite limestone
BASIC MIX (For a Small Quantity)
  • 16 gallons nitrogen stabilized bark, redwood sawdust, or other organic matter
  • 8 gallons sandy loam or uniform fine sand
  • 1-1/3 cups 0-10-10 or equivalent dry fertilizer
  • 1-3/4 cups dolomite limestone
LIGHTWEIGHT MIX
(Ideal for indoor planters or outside container plants in sheltered areas. This mix may not provide sufficient support for taller plants in windy situations.)
  • 2 parts basic mix (above)
  • 1 part perlite
ACID MIX
(For azalea, heather, rhododendron, etc.)
  • 4 or 5 parts coarse-textured peat moss
  • 1 part composted oak leaf mold
Prepare soil mix by putting ingredients into large pile, tossing them into a second pile to mix, and then tossing again if the mix is not blended the first time.

Scatter fertilizer and limestone over the blended organic matter and loam or sand. If you want a lightweight mix, use this stage to spread perlite over basic ingredients. Toss again once or twice to blend in fertilizer (and perlite if you are using it). If you are only making a small quantity of soil mix, use your hands as mixing tools.

If you're starting a new garden or trying to learn some new gardening tricks, editor Tim Lundie invites you to visit NewGardener.com ( http://www.newgardener.com ) for helpful tips and gardening inspiration.
NewGardener.com grows happy gardeners!
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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Lundie